Oh what a night!

Tonight was by far the most incredible night in Ghana!

First I will give background to the night, then describe the AMAZING events that took place in this fantastic evening!

Leading up to the parties...

I have heard all week, when asking at the Autism Center, "What should we do this weekend?" that there is a festival in Accra. I could never get an answer to "What will that entail?" or any specifics other than, "There will be lots of people eating food and celebrating..." ok... I have found out that they are celebrating the harvest; I also heard that there would be a party for twins who were born. I did not know who or what or where, but those were the only pieces of information I could really secure about this "Festival in Accra" that I kept hearing about.

Tonight (after mourning the departure ;( of my dear comrade, traveling buddy, and other-half-in-Ghana, Diane) Elizabeth (a fellow American volunteer) and I went out to experience the "Festival," wherever whenever it may be. We got on a tro-tro and headed to Accra Central. There, we met up with Louis, the same drummer with whom I traveled to Cape Coast, and we watched a cultural play humorously depicting discrepancies between two ancient tribes, background for the festival apparently. The performance was entirely in Ga, so after enjoying the atmosphere for a little, getting our one-cedi's worth out of our ticket ;), we left to head to Jamestown, where we heard there would be "Lots of music." We had no real source of information, and did not know what or where anything would be.

Jamestown is near the water, on the west side of central Accra, and could be considered a more "slum" area to western visitors. People are sleeping all over, families crowded into small spaces with clothes and belongings hanging all over. No real marks of whose house and things lie where exist, yet people live happily and self-sufficiently in this area, with markets and businesses abound.

The Amazing, Exciting Part of the Night...

The Journey There

Elizabeth and I were walking from Accra Central to Jamestown, in a dark, crowded area, and were trying to find a tro-tro or a ride to take us down the street. We finally flagged a tro-tro and asked if it was going to Jamestown. The mate and the driver looked at each other, and said, "Yea!" and then the mate started yelling, "Jamestown!" out the window! Haha. The driver then started yelling, "One cedi one cedi one cedi." (A tro-tro ride is usually about 15 or 20 peswas [cents].) We told the driver we wanted to go to "The Festival," although we really had NO idea what that, "Festival," meant! He looked at us, unsure either, and I said, "We want music. Live music! You know... music like [make drumming motion and guitar], not from a CD music." He said, "Oh, ok!" and drove the tro-tro, with only two obrunis in it, straight through a crowded jamestown area that was NOT meant for tro-tros, and dropped us off right IN the middle of tons of crazy craaaaaaaazy parties!

First thing we saw was the boxing match. We thought this was an interesting way to celebrate a harvest, but after watching for a few minutes, we walked around and saw more of the parties. There were tons of people dancing all throughout this huge "slum-ish" area, with tents set up and speakers and dj's and costumes specific to each area/crowd. When we first got there, we did not know how each party came to be, and walked through lots of dark alleys viewing all the different amazing cultural festivities of African dresses and dances in this dark area full of slum-like houses that would not seem to be fit for massive amounts of people gathering in nice clothes with party-furniture and loud speakers to party.

We wanted to dance, but didn't know what we would be intruding into. One of the parties looked like it could have been a wedding, with an arch and a "red carpet" type of thing leading to the dance floor. We decided it would be a LOT more fun if we had our Ghanaian friends with us, but since Elizabeth and I just sort of got up and went unexpectedly from the house, we didn't plan so we didn't call any of our friends to join us. I called Richard, and told him that this was so much fun and he and anyone else should come join us! His brother and him came... but the search was oh so funny.

We were in the middle of Jamestown, a huge area with no real streets or buildings or ANYTHING. Just a 'poor' area with lots of 'life.' We were in the middle.

We got pulled into a huge party by some ladies, and we liked that we were dancing among ladies because they protected us from weird men who wanted to get on us just because we were white. It was a LOT of fun, and finally after being in the center of that huge dance crowd, we realized that it was a celebration for two children, TWINS! I put it together, that that was the twin party I had heard about from a friend at the Autism Center! I never thought that I would find that twin party that she was talking about, as it seemed so random. OH WAS I WRONG.

In telling Richard where to come, I said, on the phone in this loud area, that we were in JAMESTOWN. I told him there were lots of parties everywhere, and to ask around for the TWIN PARTY, and he would find us. To make sure he understood what I said, I said, "Twins, do you know what that means?" When he said, "Huh?" I said, "two babies, born from the same mother at hte same time," and he understood.

We danced for quite a while, just me, Elizabeth, and all of the histerically laughing children, and even adults, at the parties who pulled us into their amazing dances. The dance floor cleared and the 7-year-old twins took the floor to themselves and put us to shame. Then, everyone danced again, and Elizabeth and I taught them the "Fishing move," where you pretend to cast out a line and the other person dances in toward the 'fisherman.' The kids, and even older people, just loved it and had so much fun dancing and sharing moves. These people really are incredible incredible dancers. We instantly became the guests of honor (even though the guests were all dressed in fancy African dresses and I was wearing my standard green-khakis and a best buddies t-shirt), solely because of our skin color. I really don't like being labeled, judged, and treated just based on my race, but it was definitely fun to have them welcome us so graciously as foreigners, and our skin color I guess just helped them notice that we were visitors.

The Funny Part

After making friends on the dance floor, we learned that a huge part of this entire festival was celebrating twins. We learned that every party in this whole entire city tonight is in honor of twins! We had told Richard, "Just ask for the twin party. You'll find us!"

After laughing absolutely histerically at our total lack of interpreting our surroundings, from wedding to dance-offs that were really all twin celebrations, I got a Ghanaian lady to help me describe our location to Richard. I sent him a text, and then kept dancing. Realizing that it had still been a while and we hadn't found Richard and his brother, we walked away and started to look around. [Note, the text message said, "We are near the Chief's palace. Go there and ask around where are the two obruni girls."]

Finally, I saw someone walk by and said, "That looks just like Kofi, Richard's brother," and it was! I later saw Richard run up ahead, so I ran and caught him. I ran through some ladies sitting and cooking, but did not touch them or even knock anything over. After we united with our Ghanaian friends, two of the ladies yell at me to come over to them. I have experienced so many little cultural differences that I was SURE that they were very angry at me for some reason dealing with my running through their area... either disrespecting their food or disturbing some spirit or who knows what it could be. Really, they just wanted to INSIST that I come back tomorrow to ea the food they are cooking! They were yelling to get my attention and to invite me to a meal!

The rest of the night, we went party-hopping from one crowd to another, for hours. We could have gone all night. I learned so many amazing dance moves, and felt like an absolute celebrity. Everywhere we went, people kept taking pictures with us and videotaping our dancing. There was DEFINITELY not another white person in sight in this whole area, and may never have been in the recent past. We did some intense dancing, and by 1:30 started to walk toward the main area to get home.

Getting a Taxi

"We always go for 2." That is what I always say when getting a taxi to go home to where we live, no matter where we are ;) Tonight, we were determined to get a taxi to take us back for 2 cedis so we didn't have to navigate tro-tros and walking at junctions this late at night in this area. There are thousands of taxis that drive by every moment, so it's not a problem to pass some up that want a higher price. After passing a few up that wanted way too much, we decided to make it a race. Boys vs. girls, Ghanaians vs. Americans. Elizabeth and I ran up the street to try to get one, and Richard and Kofi tried to get one too. Whoever got the lowest price the fastest won. The loser had to buy the winner Fan Ice (ice cream in a bag). I got us a taxi for 2.5 cedies, so we all got in. I celebrated, "Haha suckers, you owe me fanice!" and then when the others got in, the taxi driver said, "Oh wait. FOUR people!? That is too many. My taxi is too small. You must pay 4 cedis." NO WAY, haha. After some conversation, Richard, in the front seat told the driver he was police, HAHA. Still, the driver kept talking in a mix of Ghana languages and English about how it was too heavy and he couldn't take us. He even hissed down other taxis to try to get us. We decided to just get out because it was too weird, and start another race. I WON AGAIN!

Oh what a night!

Indoor recess... it's only 75 degrees outside, bundle up!

It is winter time here in Ghana! Yesterday, we were getting ready to do a workshop with the staff, and Baba, the administrator, asked, "Could you relocate so that the children can be in this room? I don't want them to be outside, it is too cold." Casey, the 5-month-long Global Autism Project volunteer, and I thought she was joking! She was not. They are really freezing cold here in their winter, of days reaching close to 80 and nights going just under 70 degrees Fahrenheit. When at the movies, one of my Ghanaian friends complained of being cold as well! They have absolutely no protection against cold, so I can see why it takes them by such surprise. It is very funny to watch the students have to play inside because it is close to 70 degrees! They end up running around outside anyway :)

Yesterday and today, I put on a workshop for the teachers, with the help of Casey. We taught the "Instructional Sequence," and brainstormed with the teachers on planning lessons. We talked about what makes effective teaching, and therefore learning, and thought of new ideas for certain topics and certain children. The staff were so attentive and motivated, making for very interesting and engaging discussions about how to better teach their children. We walked through the, "Modeling, guided practice, independent practice," steps of the instructional sequence along with introduciton, review, closure, etc etc. Today, one teacher shared her success of having a student independently complete a task after following through with the instructional sequence we had outlined for that student the previous afternoon!

Photo Slideshow... pictures from the Jewish village, Autism Center, and around our neighborhood in Accra

Shabbat in Africa!

This past weekend, Diane and I embarked on the ultimate adventure. We had both searched for a Jewish community in Ghana, and I had come upon the village of Sefwi Wiawso after much searching on the internet. From one small web-article and confirmation of the community’s existence from the AJWS group we met last week, we decided to head to the village with no further information. We left the Ikando house at 6:30am on Friday morning, and boarded a tro-tro for Kumasi. The ride was to take approximately four hours.

Tro-tros and buses do not have departure times here. When the vehicle is full, it leaves. That can take two minutes or two hours, and it is completely unpredictable. When the tro-tro was full, around 7:30, it pulled away, and a preacher jumped in without a seat and without buying a ticket. He stayed on for close to an hour, loudly preaching in Twi (a local language) about Jesus and Christian bible quotations. That was the beginning of our lovely day of traveling!

When we were nearing Kumasi, we asked someone on our tro-tro how we next get to Sefwi Wiawso. It would be unheard of, and practically impossible, let alone unsafe, to travel without knowing the exact route or locations of buses on which you will ride. In Ghana, that is the only way to get around. When we asked for directions near the end of our Accra-Kumasi ride, the entire tro-tro began discussing the best options. Of course no one pointed us in the right direction, but insisted on WALKING us all the way across town to the correct bus, wait while we buy our tickets, and speak to the driver to make sure that the tro-tro will take us to the exact location that we need to go. These were all complete strangers who were looking out for us so graciously! This makes traveling in Ghana so comfortable, easy, and even safe.

We took an extremely crowded, bumpy, hot tro-tro for just over three hours until we reached the village of Sefwi Wiawso. When we first boarded the tro-tro, waiting for it to leave, I realized that the AJWS group had given me the cell phone number of one of the Jewish community members. I called it to tell him that we were coming for Shabbat. He was very excited and said he would meet us at the bus station, and that we would be welcomed to stay in the home of one of the community members.


When we arrived, Akiva met us at the station and took us, by cab, to the Armah household, where we would stay.There, we had our own room with a bed, and Shabbat “equipment” out. There were candlesticks, a bread, and Fanta and Sprite for the blessings! They did not have or use wine, as it is very uncommon in Ghana anyways. We met Patrick, one of the sons of the family, and he told us about what Shabbat would be like. They make Friday night Shabbat in their homes, and then Saturday morning, go to the Synagogue around 8. Then, they come home, rest, eat, rest some more, and then go back to the synagogue to “talk about things. Like if some of us have read something new or learned something new during the week, we discuss it on Shabbat.” Then, they make Havdallah in their homes in larger groups.



On Friday night, Diane and I were so excited to be there, talk with the people, get to know them, and just ask them so many questions. They, on the other hand, wanted to respect us and insisted on giving us our own private space to relax and eat. They served us a nice meal of rice with a sauce made of beans, tomato sauce, and two hard-boiled eggs, right into our own room. We were disappointed that we would not eat with the whole family, but understood that they were just trying to treat their guests respectfully, according to their own culture’s grounds for respect. They insisted that we eat everything they brought in on our own, even when we asked them to please join us and share. After we ate, the family came into our room and said prayers. Most of them were English versions of the typical Friday night prayers, such as the prayers for the children and spouses. They also did some praying in their local language, Sefwi, and in Twi. We played and talked with the children for a while, and then slept very well in the quiet village.


Saturday morning we were woken up by a woman bringing us egg sandwiches and tea right to our room! We walked to the synagogue, and the walk was not a typical Shabbos walk... it was more like a hike! The path to the synagogue went through “rainforest,” village area. The synagogue was a rectangular room with benches and a table at the front, with bookshelves that held prayer books and talit. There is no Rabbi in Sefwi Wiawso, so the leader, Kofi, was basically a preacher/song-leader, but of Jewish “preaching.” Without understanding the language, it could have easily been a church service, with the style of preaching and praying. It was wonderful, however, to recognize some of the readings and songs.

The synagogue, above, is the blue/white building on the left. On the right is Kofi's house.

The Torah service took up the bulk of the time of the Saturday morning services. The prayers went by quickly, with some African songs, and then they spent a few minutes on each VERSE of the Torah portion, reading it aloud in English from the book and then discussing it in Twi/Sefwi, their local language. They did this for the Torah and the Haftarah portions. (I fell asleep for some of it, as did many of the children attendees.)


After services, we went back to the house where we were served another lovely meal of rice, beans, tomato sauce, and eggs. Then, we went on a walk around the village with Rachael, the 8-year old daughter of the family. After playing with the children for a while and touring where their school was, Diane and I fell asleep in our room. We were both so unbelievably exhausted from our past weeks of non-stop adventure that having this time to rest on Shabbat really took hold of us. We slept until it was time for Havdallah, and then had Havdallah and spent lots of time talking, singing, and dancing with the community.

During Havdallah, I snuck my camera on so that I could record one of their African/Jewish songs, “Me Nyame,” my lord is good. I also recorded some of their Havdallah service, which used the same, “Lai lai lai,” that we use in BBYO and other Havdallahs! At night, we had dance-offs with the kids, where they showed us their Michael Jackson-type moves, and then even ended up dancing the horah with a large group of children!



Sunday morning we woke up early to take pictures around the village. We could not take pictures of the synagogue and around the house on Saturday because they keep Shabbat fairly strictly. This, however, got confusing, along with other things. Some people’s cell phones rang, and some were even answered, on Shabbat. Also, the children came in and put on the radio and danced to it with low volume (unusual for the loud-loving Ghanaian culture). There were many instances where Diane and I looked at each other and said, “Ok?” for the strange followings of certain Jewish customs.

Albert, one of the older sons of the Armah family, was to take a computer class in Accra, so he took the bus with us back to Kumasi. Everyone we met in Kumasi could not BELIEVE that we had taken a tro-tro the whole journey! We loved tro-tros, as they leave sooner and go faster. Everyone we met, however, always said, “Tro-tros are dangerous. They drive to fast... etc etc.” We gave in and took the Metro Mass Transit bus with Albert to Kumasi. While slower, it was more comfortable. Nonetheless, tro-tro or bus, there was ALWAYS blaringly loud music/preaching coming over the radio. On the way back from Kumasi, we consented again to taking the luxurious bus, instead of a tro-tro, for one cedi more. This took over three extra hours than the tro-tro took, however! We will stick to our love of tro-tros from now on ☺



When we stopped in Kumasi, Diane and I decided we wanted to visit the hospital that was started by a doctor from the Cleveland Clinic. I called his nephew, who connected me with the administrator of the hospital. We took a taxi from the Kumasi bus station out to this village hospital, and got a private tour. It was a really incredible facility, with everything available for every type of patient need, from maternity care to radiology to physical therapy, and they even had a mortuary! It was great to get to see a hospital in Ghana, and fantastic to have the opportunity to visit the one started by someone from Cleveland!

This week at the Autism Center including... BEST BUDDIES!

This week at the Autism Center, I worked on some "workshops" with the education director in how to PLAN for lessons. I actually used the same powerpoint from which I first learned about lesson plans! Thank you Professor Kim Paulsen! It has been really beneficial to walk through WHY they are teaching certain things to the kids, let alone how they are teaching them. For instance, a lot of the kids have items on their "program/goal" sheets, such as, "Imitates _____ sound," or "Identifies animal sounds." After walking through the form of a lesson plan, which includes explaining to the child why it is important they learn these skills, I think it has made the leaders at the Autism center begin to re-think the skills on which they are placing importance. Not that things are drastically changing in their program/curriculum... yet, but I can begin to see some small effects.

A very exciting advancement at the beginning of the week was a meeting with Best Buddies Ghana! On Sunday night, when I returned from Cape Coast, three individuals from Best Buddies Ghana and one Ghanaian volunteer from the Autism Center came over to the Ikando house for a meeting about starting Best Buddies at the Autism Center. The college student, Isaac, was excited about expanding the program and took on the responsibility/opportunity of starting up the Autism Center site. He was scheduled to visit Tuesday, and then Wednesday, but finally, today, he came and saw the center! (In Ghana, scheduled meetings are often delayed due to lack of knowledge of location, transportation issues, and just the general culture of delay.) Today, Isaac came and visited the center! He met the children, teachers, and administrators, and then, we decided to just go ahead and get started. We walked across the street to a private, "Regular School," and met directly with the head master! We had no appointment, but Isaac, Diane, and I just walked in and sold the project! The head master said he would be excited to expose his children to social interaction with children with Autism.



After school each day, we have had lots of Ghanaian experiences. We have made really good friends with Asana, who we have always called, "The Batik Lady." Batik is like tie-dye here, and is a very popular type of fabric. Asana owns a batik shop that is on the road in between the house and the Autism center. We stop each way to chat with her, and have become close with her entire family. This past week, the front of her shop is closed because she is actually making the batik. We have been in the back with her each afternoon helping make it, and we even got to design our own fabrics! [I made curtains for the new condo.] It has been very interesting to be so involved with her business, family, and life. We have gotten really close, and today she already talked about how she is going to cry so much when we leave.

We also went over to Richard's house last night. Richard is a teacher at the Autism center who we have become good friends with. Additionally, Muhamad is a volunteer from Kwame Nkrumah University in Kumasi, working at AACT only for the summer. We have become friendly with him, and he lives right around the corner from the center. His mom owns a shop with ice-cream, and he takes us to his house to show us his amazing artwork!

Ghanaian Houses/Family Life

Ghanaian houses/buildings in general are very different from anything I have known. A "house" is not necessarily all indoors. A "house" as they refer to it is more of a courtyard with enclosed rooms as mini "houses" all around a middle open space. This open space has "lawn-furniture" and sometimes a kitchen area, and dry-lines. Many nuclear families tend to live around the same courtyard area, or house as they call it here.


Tonight, we went to the movies! We went in Nima, which is not a very ritzy area of town and certainly not a very touristy one. The movie theater was outside, under the stars, with people walking arond with items on their head to sell! It was a hilarious experience, with old 80s movies and Ghanaians constantly talking and moving about.

Things Jessi forgot... by Diane

Dear readers,

My friend Jessi obviously forgot to mention what happen when she tried to go the bathroom . Here is the story: As usual Jessi needed to pee ( honestly I have never seen someone going so often to the toilet, she goes to the toilet six time per hours ) so she said to me :Diane I am going to the bathroom, I will be right back. Suddenly,I heard heavy sounds coming from the bathroom. Panicked, I decided to see what was going on. As a brave girl , I rushed into the bathroom ready to help my lovely friend. There I saw Jessi trying to explain to me in a language signs ( i am from France so my English is extremely limited , by using language signs?or signs language ? )that the toilet fall into pieces ( if you want more info about the incident ask Jessi sure she will be much more precise that me). Out of breath, she was keepig saying " OH MY GOD, OH MY GOD..... .

Seeing Jessi trying to do her best to fix the toilet hilarious........

During our time in a charming hotel, others things happened. Before sleeping, Jessi wanted to wash her face. She went to the bathroom and turned the faucet on. The water was poop brown, so finally she used baby washing rather than the water.

Just keep the spirit movin', man

That was the mantra we heard this entire past weekend... hanging out with Rastafari guys and chilling on the beach, heading to cape coast, always, "Be free," "No Worries," "Keep the spirit moving."

This will be the longest, funniest, most random blog post I have ever done, as it was the longest, funniest, most random weekend I have ever had! I will try to make it easier to follow by putting headers...

The Journey to Cape Coast, begins on Thursday.

We left the Autism Center Thursday afternoon, and it was VERY hot. We were carrying a lot of things, and sweating profusely, and really wanted to stop. We saw this "fancy" hotel, and decided to walk in and check it out. We went in ,and just sat and de-sweated in the fancy fancy restaurant, without ordering, haha! We just used the air conditioning, sat for 20 minutes or so, and then left.
When we got back, we dropped off our fabric we bought at Circle to the Sweing Lady right around our corner, and then went to get a taxi to meet Louis, the Ghanaian drummer with whom we were traveling ot Cape Coast. Mary, the dress-lady's daughter, insisted on carrying my guitar and being our escort to the taxi! We were to meet Louis at the Art Center, a place where people sell lots of cultural items, right by the water. When we got there, of course we had to wait an hour... but while we were waiting, we watched a practice of this show with intense dancers and drumming/singing/flute!
Finally, around 8, we left for Cape Coast, about a 3 hour drive. Mensa, Louis's friend, drove us, with Louis in the passenger seat and Diane and I in the back. In the trunk were oru bags, foru drums, and my guitar. One of the great things about Africa is you don't ever have to plan ahead of time for bringing snacks on a trip... while sitting in traffic, Louis and Mensa got us water, plantain chips, chocolate, and other snacks right from the car window. The ENTIRE ride, they kept saying, "Are you feeling worried? Be free, no worries. That's what I like to hear. Just keep the spirit moving..." those same few sentences OVER and over again. The "Rastafari culture" is big here, and is very repetetive in their constant mantras of "keep the spirit moving," and reassuring themselves and others all the time that "Everything is positive."
Along the way, we passed a police check where the driver paid the policeman one cedi, for no apparent reason. We could not get an answer out of our drivers, besides the fact that they kept saying, "It's just old tradition here." We kept finding out what would happen if you DIDNT pay the police at a checkpoint, but they didn't really understand our inquiries. It's just what they do, apparently.

We were to stay each night in Green Hills, an accommodation that Louis secured for us that he assured would be great for us, "I want to keep you girls safe and make sure everything is ookey," as he kept saying. The place was in "Addison Square Gardens," owned by teh Addison family, and home of "African Footprint," a drumming/dancing/cultural group with people who are deaf.
After checking into oruu *lovely* lodging, we went to Oasis Resort on the beach to hang out and jam. There was a bonfire, and it was Diane's first time having a camp fire! We sang songs with Rasta guys, and had a really great time! There was a little cultural clash at the end, but we learned a LOT from it:
It was 2:30am and Diane and I had worked at the Autism Center all day... we were tired and ready to get back and go to bed. Neither of us wanted to make Louis or Mensa leave their friends at the beach, to whom they introduced us, so we approached them and considerately said, "We are feeling very tired and would like to head back. We are happy to take a taxi, as we don't want to make you leave your friends here if you want to stay."
Unknown to us, in the Ghanaian culture, if you come with someone, you leave with them. It is absolutely 100% insulting to offer to secure a different ride home. It is flattering, and EXPECTED to request that the person who brought you take you home when you feel like leaving. Well, we had NO idea of this, and were just trying to be considerate of our friends who so generously drove us up to Cape Coast with their group. There was a large fight that lasted for a good while, where the guys just would not listen to our take on the story and were completely insulted by our actions. We learned a lot, and at the end of the night, drove back together to Green Hills.

Louis, Diane, and Mensa

Friday: Touring the Cape Coast Castle, shopping, cooking

We woke up to drumming around 7am, although Diane slept through it. Louis and Mensa made breakfast for us: bananas, eggs, bread, and tea. Diane and I toured the Cape Coast Castle in the morning, and to get in, Diane walked up and paid 5 cedi total for two tickets, although for foreigners it is much more expensive. ;) This was the headquarters of the slave trade from the Gold Coast.

**** Here begins our crazy adventures of meeting lots of people and seeing them AGAIN at unexpected places. I will use " * " to refer to those instances. ;) *********

At the castle, we met some African American ladies* from Illinois, and also befriended a girl from Ireland*. In the Museum, the lights went out... pretty flipping scary being in a slave quarters with no emergeny lights. (I had my key-chain flashlight, thank goodness!) It CERTAINLY was not an American or European museum. After the castle, we met up with Louis and Mensa and went walking around the area. Lots of bargaining, i.e. never bought earrings for more than one cedi, way to go Diane. Later, we went to a LOCAL market to buy food. Also got some fabric. We went back to Green Hills and cooked a Ghanaian meal.




It is STILL Obama Mania in cape Coast! That is where he visited with his family.


We went to Oasis on the beach again to jam, and this time,



We went to Oasis on the beach again to jam, and this time, we saw a group of American-looking kids. While walking behind the group, we saw one of the boys was wearing a kippa!!!! The group** was from AJWS, American Jewish World Service. They were 17-18 year-olds doing a summer group community service trip building a school in the Volta Region in Ghana. We talked for a little while, and then they had to get rushed out to get on with their itinerary for the night. We were so excited to see them, but also sad that we may never get to see them again. (We continued to see them at FIVE random, unplanned occasions in the next few days.)

We continued to experience another (more severe) culture clash that night, of which I won’t explain the details, but it was another adventure and learning experience nonetheless. We went out on the beach and played more songs, mostly Bob Marley, with Rasta guys and other random foreigners. *On the beach, we met the Danish girl that we jammed with earlier that week at the Art Center with Louis. Upon leaving, TOGETHER, we saw an ice cream truck, serving soft-serve! There were also street kids dancing around to the music, that were incredible Michael Jackson impersonators. We shared ice creams with them.

Saturday... where we saw EVERYONE!

After another lovely bread and egg breakfast, we got in a tro-tro to go to Panafest, the big cultural festival in Cape Coast that weekend! The tro-tro was almost full, and short one seat for our group. Diane got on first, and I squeezed into the back and just plopped on Diane’s lap without really saying anything. The other passengers thought that I had just sat on a random Ghanaian lady, and were totally appalled by my behavior. I got so many dirty looks, like, “Who does she think she is, just sitting on someone’s lap!”

Louis’s group was supposed to play at the opening ceremonies at 10am, but his show got changed to 7:30pm. While it was disappointing, it was really not surprising because EVERYTHING in Ghana happens the opposite way that it is planned, in a completely unexpected fashion. We walked around the Panafest area, which included a large stage with huge speakers, and a whole expo of hundreds of Ghanaian vendors with various cultural items. I bought bags/purses made out of Fanice (ice cream in a bag) bags!!!
Later, we saw the opening ceremonies of Panafest, and bumped into... the **Jewish group! As usual, they were rushed away by their chaperones, but it was so nice to bump into them on Shabbat again.

Diane and I walked up "close" to watch the dignitaries, and to TRY to understand the Ghanaian English. We met the rest of the Ikando volunteer group who had just arrived via tro-tro, and then continued to walk around with Diane while they toured the Castle. We also bumped into another volunteer, Elizabeth, and her friend from Japan who is deaf*. Now that Panafest was officially open, it cost 2 cedis to get into the expo. No way Diane and I were going to pay... we walked up to the gate, and I said, “Hey! Remember me? We were just in here. I was the guitar player, she was the drummer?” The people at the gate said, “Oh yea! Can we please just see some ID?” I showed them my Vandy card and we just marched through into our Panafest adventures.

Inside, everyone was our friend from somewhere. People we jammed with on the beach, back in Accra, etc etc. One guy followed us around for most of the day, a Ghanaian university student. While bargaining (two large necklaces for 6 cedis, oh yea) we saw the ***Jewish group again!
After a great deal of shopping, we walked up to the stage, and Diane really wanted me to play. I declined, insisting that they had professional bands lined up and I would not just impose into their set. Diane marched onto the stage and said to one of the guys, “See my friend over there? She plays guitar.” They pulled me up on the stage, gave me the Stratocaster, and I just started jamming reggae and jazz on this huge stage at Panafest!



Then, the Jewish kids saw I was on stage, so a durummer, bass player, nad two singers from their group come on the stage and join me! We played a rousing, African "Od Yavoh Shalom Alienu," for the crowd!

While I was on the stage, I looked out and saw *the group from Michigan that I had sat with for hours delyaed at the JFK airport!

Later that evening we took a tro-tro to Kakum National Park. When we got there, it was pitch black dark, and the stars were by far the clearest, most beautiful stars I have ever seen... even compared to those in Carrollton, Ohio. Hard to believe! We hiked up to our platforms in the rainforest, where we stayed that night.

I was the first to check out the toilet, and the first one had a mountain of poop piled HIGH when I opened the toilet seat. Then, I brought Diane with me to look at the second toilet, because I was scared (rightfully so), and it had not only a gigantic mountain of poop but a mouse standing on the top of it peeking out at me! We slept three girls on one mattress under a mosquito net, and all night long heard animal noises: monkeys, and who knows what else. The next morning, we did the canopy walk. It was exhilarating!

Sunday: Kakum Park and back to Accra

On the top of the canopy of the rainforest, who did we bump into but... ****the Jewish group! Also, crossing the canopies, we saw **Elizabeth and her friend! Additionally, the previous weekend we traveled to the Volta Region, and our group adopted a *Canadian solo-traveler we had met on the bus. We also saw him at the bottom of Kakum park. On our way out, we bumped into the **group from Illinois we met at the castle.

We stopped on the main road on the way back to eat at Hans Cottage, a place I had heard about from my lovely tro-tro mates on the ride to Kakum park. (I had a good hour of love proposals and conversations with eager Ghanaian men on the way to the park. I explained to them that I was married already. I’ve gotten good at this!) There, at this random stop on the road midway between Kakum and Cape Coast, we saw *****the Jewish group again! It was really just meant for us to travel together the entire weekend; although each time we saw them they were always being rushed out to their next activity. It was a lot of fun to make friends with them in Ghana.

We convinced our tro-tro to drive us not only back to Cape Coast but all the way to our Ikando house for seven cedis per person! On a squished, extremely hot ride back, Diane and I wrote up this entire blog to remember all of our crazy occurrences of the weekend.